Le Labo Santal 33 dupes

What is Santal 33?

Santal 33 is a perfume by Le Labo, the New York brand known for its lab-style bottles. It came out in 2011.

The perfumer is Frank Voelkl. He also helped Le Labo's founders, Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi, when they started the brand.

It is an Eau de Parfum, and it is sold as unisex. It has become one of the most famous niche perfumes of its time.

It started as a candle

Santal 33 has an unusual history. Voelkl first offered a sandalwood scent when Le Labo was launching in 2006.

The founders left it out of the perfume line. Instead, it became a candle and a room spray called Santal 26.

People loved the candle so much that they asked for a perfume. Around 2010, the founders asked Voelkl to turn it into one.

Wikipedia says the work took two years and about 400 test versions. Penot said the result was "a little deeper and more comfortable" than the candle.

The Marlboro man idea

Le Labo's own launch text started with a surprising picture. It asked, "Do you remember the old Marlboro ads?"

It described "a man and his horse in front of the fire on a great plain." The brand said it wanted to capture the spirit of the American West.

So the idea is wood smoke, leather and open air. It is a cowboy's campfire, turned into something soft and modern.

What does it smell like?

Santal 33 smells like dry, creamy sandalwood with a soft leather feel and a powdery, violet-like touch. It is warm, woody and a little spicy.

Fragrantica lists sandalwood, leather, papyrus, cedar, cardamom, violet, iris and amber. Its main accords are woody, powdery and leather.

Le Labo said the base is Australian sandalwood, papyrus and cedar. Cardamom, iris and violet sit on top to add spice and softness.

What is papyrus?

Papyrus is the reed the ancient Egyptians used to make paper. In perfume, it gives a dry, woody, slightly smoky feel.

It is a big part of why Santal 33 feels dry rather than sweet. Some owners describe a papery side to the scent, and this is where it comes from.

The pickle problem

Santal 33 is famous for one strange complaint. Many people say it smells like pickles.

On Reddit, one person said, "all I get is picklejuice." Another said that once someone told them about the dill pickle smell, they "can't un-smell it."

Others get no pickle at all. One owner said it is "super sweet and woody" on them.

So where does the pickle come from? One Reddit user had a good theory.

They pointed out there are different types of sandalwood. They said the one they dislike "smells like pickles," while another kind smells like "Buddhist sandalwood prayer beads."

Le Labo says Santal 33 uses Australian sandalwood. It smells drier and sharper than the creamy Indian kind, which may explain why some noses pick up something sour.

How it changes on your skin

The opening. The first spray is dry wood with cardamom and a little violet. This is where the pickle note shows up for those who get it.

The middle. The leather and iris come forward. The scent turns softer and more powdery.

The drydown. Hours later, you are left with smooth, creamy wood and a soft musk. This is the part most fans love.

A cultural symbol

Santal 33 became the smell of a time and place. Wikipedia says it was widely worn in New York, London, Paris and Los Angeles.

On Reddit, people still argue about it. In one popular thread, a user said it "was the frag of nyc 5 years ago."

Another replied, "Los Angeles is already Santal 33, you can't have it."

It even reached pop culture. Wikipedia notes that Santal 26 candles appeared in Beyoncé's film Lemonade in 2016.

Its fame also made it a joke. Some people grew tired of it because so many others wore it.

In 2014, the beauty giant Estée Lauder bought Le Labo. That helped make Santal 33 a fixture at beauty counters around the world.

Why people love it

It is unique and grown-up. It smells like no typical men's or women's scent.

It is strong and lasting. One Reddit user said that after a neighbour wears it, the lift in their building "positively hums with it."

On Fragrantica, it has more than 5,000 "love" votes from nearly 14,000 voters.

Why some people don't

Besides the pickle note, some simply find it unpleasant. One person said it was so off-putting it made them "queasy."

Another said it smells like "pickles and wood chips" to them. They could not imagine sitting next to someone wearing it on a long flight.

On Fragrantica, it gets about 3,000 "dislike" and "hate" votes combined. That is a lot, even for a very popular perfume.

Our tip: test it on skin for at least a few hours. A quick sniff on paper will not tell you how it wears on you.

The closest dupes

Paris Corner Emir Rich Santal. Paris Corner is a dupe house from the United Arab Emirates. One Reddit user put it at "95%," and said it "only swaps leather with suede."

An owner who went to a Le Labo store just to compare said the Emir dupe "is soooo good." They added that the original is "more complex."

The downside is strength. One owner said "it requires a lot of sprays if you want it to project."

They added that it needs a month or two to settle after opening.

Interestingly, one buyer who always got the pickle note from sandalwood said Emir Rich Santal was the first that did not give them that smell.

Cremo Palo Santo. Cremo is a US grooming brand sold in big shops. One reviewer bought a decant of the original just to compare, and put Cremo at "probably 95% close."

They stressed that it does not smell like cheap drugstore cologne. They also found it has less of the dill note than the original, plus a little smoke.

The catch is that it fades fast. The same reviewer said, "It's a skin scent within 2 hours."

The divisive dupes

Game of Spades Bid. Game of Spades is a line from Jo Milano. The same three-way reviewer said Bid runs "a little bit sweeter than the OG."

They felt the sweetness actually makes the pickle note stronger. But it lasts much longer, "well over 8 hours."

Dossier Woody Sandalwood. This one splits people sharply. One owner of both said they are "hard to tell difference within 5-10 mins," with the original "a little bit denser."

But others hated it. One person said it is "very sharp and has no sweet or papery facets," which made it "unbearably, offensively pickle-y."

Another Dossier fan said they "NEARLY DIED" when they sprayed it in a shop. Their nose found it far too much.

A useful rule

If you get the pickle note from the original, pick a dupe that softens it. Cremo Palo Santo and Emir Rich Santal both have owners saying they have less of it.

If you love the original as it is, the sweeter dupes may push the pickle further. That is what the reviewer found with Bid.

Other names you will see

Atelier Cologne Santal Carmin. One Reddit user said it is close to Santal 33, and they prefer it.

No. 4 Bois de Balincourt. The same user said this was "nearly identical" to Santal 33 to their nose.

Le Labo Santal 26 candle. This is the original candle the perfume grew from. It is not a dupe, but fans of one often love the other.

Santal 33 or a dupe: which should you buy?

Buy the original if you want the full, complex scent and the Le Labo name. It is also more complex than any of the dupes, by the owners' own account.

Buy Emir Rich Santal if you want the closest match and are happy to spray more. Give it a month to settle.

Buy Cremo Palo Santo if you want a cheap, easy version for home or casual days. Expect it to fade within a couple of hours.

Skip all of them if the pickle note is all you smell. Try a creamier sandalwood scent instead.

When to wear it

Santal 33 works all year. On Fragrantica, autumn gets the most votes, but spring and winter are close behind.

It is fine for day or night. It suits the office, dinners and weekends equally well.

Summer gets the fewest votes, but still plenty. It is not limited to cold weather the way many woody scents are.

Tips for wearing it

Two or three sprays is enough. It is strong, and it fills small rooms fast.

Spray it on clothes if you want it to last into the next day. Wood and leather notes cling to fabric.

If the opening smells sour to you, give it time before you decide. The drydown is softer and creamier than the first spray.

The bottom line

Santal 33 is a dry, creamy sandalwood with leather and violet, made from a candle that customers loved. It became a symbol of its era.

People either love its warm, woody feel or smell nothing but pickles. There is very little middle ground.

Paris Corner Emir Rich Santal and Cremo Palo Santo are the closest dupes. Game of Spades Bid and Dossier Woody Sandalwood split owners more sharply.